What New Parts Would YOU Like To See???

[keller]

although hopefully it is not as bad the CTR’s cooling issues on the track

We track a Si and a CTR. Once you get a BBK, the Si can EASILY handle multiple hotlaps. Admittedly I'm not tracking oil temps on the Si, so that should be getting hot. The CTR OTOH overheats and pulls power on the very first hotlap. Once I was following my wife on the track - she was driving her Si and I was on the CTR at the same pace. After 2 laps I had to cool down, while she kept going for another 3-4 laps. It means that even a CTR putting down ~200hp has obvious overheating issues.

The CTR is harder on cooling because the radiator is a vertical flow radiator vs the crossflow used on the rest of the Civic lineup, and the CTR cooling system is cooling the engine oil and the transmission oil from the factory.

Why does the vertical flow make it worse?

+1 on the part to raise the rear of the coupe. I also use that point to lift the car, but it's a lot more trouble than lifting the rear of the FK8.

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[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

We track a Si and a CTR. Once you get a BBK, the Si can EASILY handle multiple hotlaps. Admittedly I'm not tracking oil temps on the Si, so that should be getting hot. The CTR OTOH overheats and pulls power on the very first hotlap. Once I was following my wife on the track - she was driving her Si and I was on the CTR at the same pace. After 2 laps I had to cool down, while she kept going for another 3-4 laps. It means that even a CTR putting down ~200hp has obvious overheating issues.



Why does the vertical flow make it worse?

+1 on the part to raise the rear of the coupe. I also use that point to lift the car, but it's a lot more trouble than lifting the rear of the FK8.

IMO one of the major issues with the CTR overheating issue is the fact that it has the burden of pulling heat from the engine oil and trans oil too. I think removing those cooling circuits to shed that burden and installing a air-oil oil cooler for the engine oil would go a long way for helping coolant temps. I'm not convinced that a trans cooler is necessary, and once up to operating temperature both of those oils are likely running hotter than the coolant.

Crossflow radiators are generally preferred for performance applications because cars are wider than they are tall, which means a crossflow radiator has longer tubes (albeit less tubes overall) than a downflow radiator. This means coolant spends more time in the cooling tube, which allows for a longer heat transfer period. But the bigger advantage is in applications like the 10th gen where there is an intercooler in front of the radiator. The hotter air leaving the intercooler that then goes through the radiator only impacts the lower tubes in a crossflow setup, versus impacting all of the tubes in a downflow setup.

I have that on my list. Hoping to start working on it once we have production stapled down for the side engine mounts and coolant tank!

 

[Savannah@TSP]

Would love to see more K20C2 support.

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Would love to see more K20C2 support.

We will have C2 engine mounts and catch cans pretty soon!

 

[_jdavidfc4]

We will have C2 engine mounts and catch cans pretty soon!

Holy shit this is amazing! THANK YOUUU!!!!🫶🫂

 

[ronmcdon]

My current plan for our kit is to use an integrated thermostat in the sandwich plate but space is a premium in the area so I'll have to get creative for sure.

what might you see being the bottlenecks of cooling the 1.5t at higher than 250hp for track days?

being in CA, the one advantage is hotter weather at most tracks save Laguna Seca, so like 90f hot lapping sadly isnt far off the norm.

nothing fancy on my end. just the modest gc+ and, settling for crumbs, all we get is 91oct. I dont see going above 280whp as realistic

 

[mrburgerUS]

what might you see being the bottlenecks of cooling the 1.5t at higher than 250hp for track days?

being in CA, the one advantage is hotter weather at most tracks save Laguna Seca, so like 90f hot lapping sadly isnt far off the norm.

nothing fancy on my end. just the modest gc+ and, settling for crumbs, all we get is 91oct. I dont see going above 280whp as realistic

My main thing was big turbo could over-run the coolant shedding capability last summer. That was humid KY backroads and 27 psi on an RV6 though, first time coolant ran away even with a Koyorad.
Oil is just risky on L15B, can’t monitor temps and these motors cook oil - my evaporative losses are pretty bad compared to blowby. the PCV system has to work, and the plastic bits are really bad.
If you’re doing an oil cooler, my only request from my failure are this:

• Make the hoses easily routed with anti rubbing sleeve
• Add a low resistance 1 way valve on the inlet host area to prevent drainback (mine seemed to lose oil in the lines easily)
• FOR THE LOVE OF GOD use a thermostat that is 210F or so, the 180F Setrab caused a ton of issues. These motors have to run oil at 200+ to evaporate off the diluted fuel and prevent condensation. It’s stupid that 180F is common, a street focused setpoint is a necessity.

Other than that, I liked my oil cooler besides the issues it caused with oil never reaching temp to prevent dilution (via “boiling” diluted fuel out) and making start sounds crunchy after letting the car sit.

 

[Ducota]

what might you see being the bottlenecks of cooling the 1.5t at higher than 250hp for track days?

being in CA, the one advantage is hotter weather at most tracks save Laguna Seca, so like 90f hot lapping sadly isnt far off the norm.

nothing fancy on my end. just the modest gc+ and, settling for crumbs, all we get is 91oct. I dont see going above 280whp as realistic

We have access to E85

 

[redcoats1976]

outside window moldings that dont self destruct in 4 years.

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

what might you see being the bottlenecks of cooling the 1.5t at higher than 250hp for track days?

being in CA, the one advantage is hotter weather at most tracks save Laguna Seca, so like 90f hot lapping sadly isnt far off the norm.

nothing fancy on my end. just the modest gc+ and, settling for crumbs, all we get is 91oct. I dont see going above 280whp as realistic

I'm not sure I'd say there is a bottleneck, but I would absolutely suggest an oil cooler and switching to a coolant mixture that's more water. I generally keep my car around 30/70 which keeps the freeze protection down to like -10 or -15 but has better heat transfer than a 50/50 mix.

A better intercooler is a good idea for keeping charge temps in check too. Ethanol helps fight high charge temps as well and we do sell a throttle spacer for those that want to run a meth kit. I have some ideas for getting some more fuel without having to resort to a full port injection kit for the guys that only need another 50-100hp of fuel.

My main thing was big turbo could over-run the coolant shedding capability last summer. That was humid KY backroads and 27 psi on an RV6 though, first time coolant ran away even with a Koyorad.
Oil is just risky on L15B, can’t monitor temps and these motors cook oil - my evaporative losses are pretty bad compared to blowby. the PCV system has to work, and the plastic bits are really bad.
If you’re doing an oil cooler, my only request from my failure are this:

• Make the hoses easily routed with anti rubbing sleeve
• Add a low resistance 1 way valve on the inlet host area to prevent drainback (mine seemed to lose oil in the lines easily)
• FOR THE LOVE OF GOD use a thermostat that is 210F or so, the 180F Setrab caused a ton of issues. These motors have to run oil at 200+ to evaporate off the diluted fuel and prevent condensation. It’s stupid that 180F is common, a street focused setpoint is a necessity.

Other than that, I liked my oil cooler besides the issues it caused with oil never reaching temp to prevent dilution (via “boiling” diluted fuel out) and making start sounds crunchy after letting the car sit.

In terms of high coolant temps, I would make sure that you've bled all the air bubbles out of the system and if there are none then move to a higher water concentration mix. Also if you're still on the factory upper grille, consider getting a more open aftermarket grille similar to the updated Type R grille. The factory grille does not allow for all that much airflow which is pretty paramount for keeping things cool on track.

As far as the oil cooler goes, we'll definitely be including some protective sleeves for the lines, I had to add some to my MAP kit after I found them chafing in a couple areas. As for a drainback valve, I've seen them used a few times with very hit or miss results. Also any quality oil filter will have a drainback valve so the amount of oil draining back is pretty minimal, and it would increase the price of the kit. I'm still looking around to see what route we take with the thermostat, but that 180F rating is the crack point, typically that means the full open temperature will be around 200F. 180F is also the most common rating for oil thermostatic valves. We're shooting to be at a similar price point as other kits on the market, I don't expect many people to be interested at $8-900 so we have to be pretty particular with everything going into the kit.

 

[st4xor]

I've been logging peak oil temps (aftermarket sensor/gauge in oil drain plug) vs. ambient for my commute on the street for the past couple of months. Stock Si power train, no power mods, stock tune. I will post oil temp vs. ambient temp plot soon for what I've seen. But I will say I didn't see _anything_ in the 200 range until the last week or so when we started nipping at 90F ambient.

I've got a couple track days coming up this summer where I'll monitor oil temps, as well. Wanted to get some baseline numbers temp numbers before I start adding some juice.

 

[st4xor]

We track a Si and a CTR. Once you get a BBK, the Si can EASILY handle multiple hotlaps. Admittedly I'm not tracking oil temps on the Si, so that should be getting hot.

I 2nd this, have not had any cooling related issues to date (at least that were observable from data or dash). But BBK can definitely be necessary in stock trim depending on driver style and how much you ask of your brakes. To be continued on oil temp data...

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

I've been logging peak oil temps (aftermarket sensor/gauge in oil drain plug) vs. ambient for my commute on the street for the past couple of months. Stock Si power train, no power mods, stock tune. I will post oil temp vs. ambient temp plot soon for what I've seen. But I will say I didn't see _anything_ in the 200 range until the last week or so when we started nipping at 90F ambient.

I've got a couple track days coming up this summer where I'll monitor oil temps, as well. Wanted to get some baseline numbers temp numbers before I start adding some juice.

How long is your commute? Do you have an oil cooler?

I would say most cars don't achieve 200+ oil temps on the street unless they're driving for more than 20 minutes. Track driving is obviously a whole different story. Curious to see what data you come up with!

 

[alxgravel]

Do we have access to oil temp in tunerview ? I will look if I can find it and if avaible I will look at it with my fbo si. On my next session of lapping.

 

[Austin@Wunderladen Racing]

Do we have access to oil temp in tunerview ? I will look if I can find it and if avaible I will look at it with my fbo si. On my next session of lapping.

There is no oil temp sensor from the factory so if there is a parameter for oil temp it is a calculated number which may as well be a guess.

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