Reluctant return but necessary

[rednichols]

My OBD reader having misled me on what my CRV outputs power wise (my earlier posts here), I recently had the good fortune of its maker OBDLink replacing it with a new unit, and simultaneously provide a firmware update. The clue was that the EX model was showing different hp and tq numbers on the 'gauges' (high) and on the underlying logs (lower) so I asked why.

Now they're the same: lower, to the point where these readings are now about 200hp/210tq. More reasonable in view of the pushback my 'findings' received originally that showed much higher power ratings. And these new ones are reasonably close to what the Matchbot app suggests with my settings for bsfc and v.e.

My original search was not for power ratings but to learn the boost of the particular engine I have, which is the Thailand model known as the L15BG and comes w/out a boost gauge of its own. The good news for me: the boost reading is a minimum of the 18.4 psi gage that I had expected, and recently I've had a reading of 19.3 gage which suggests that the engine is set up to match the L15BE in the Accord, which is 20.2 psi gage. The Wiki chart for the L15 engines suggest this also. No matter, time will tell:

Soon to find out what the results are with E85 given that this is Honda's FFV and the car is rated for same. The EX by OBDLink allows me to chart spark advance, too, which at boosts above 5000 rpm have changed from as much as -10.5 degs to as much as +18.5 degs at those higher revs. This is a result of my switching from 91RON that is minimum for the car here, to 98RON that is the highest octane available here.

The OBDLink is also charting the lowered intake temps I was able to achieve with the factory engine but with shields (1) between the intake crossover pipe and the hot turbine (the Honda engine was designed to run at temps up to 2000F for fuel economy and pollution reasons) and a now revised snorkel that channels cold 'ram' air from the forward lip of the bonnet. Temps are the same at the engine's sensor as ambient, which then means that air density is equal to the pressure ratio of the compressor, which means more fuel by command of the ECU, which means more power. I'm unable to chart fueling though.

As mentioned, next to see how the readings change going from 98RON to E85. Do already know that my 'mpg' will get noticeably worse.

 

[rednichols]

Discovered that when the OBDLink EX is set to 'e85', with no other changes the power readings skyrocket but without the related PIDs changing, too, in support. E.g, mass airflow stays the same, of course, so the indicated hp and tq increases are not plausible. Ditto the absolute load value still indicating 200 hp vs the 'new' indication of nearly 300.

In reaction to that finding, even though I still have e85 in the tank I switched the reader back to the 'gasoline/petrol' setting. And notified the OBDLink company of a flaw. They've already been gracious enough to have replaced the unit.

Also am wondering at the boost values being notably lower. A coincidence of a tank full of e85? Not something I would've expected given the higher octane of e85; even vs the 98 ron I have been running.

 

[speedyserg]

Discovered that when the OBDLink EX is set to 'e85', with no other changes the power readings skyrocket but without the related PIDs changing, too, in support. E.g, mass airflow stays the same, of course, so the indicated hp and tq increases are not plausible. Ditto the absolute load value still indicating 200 hp vs the 'new' indication of nearly 300.

In reaction to that finding, even though I still have e85 in the tank I switched the reader back to the 'gasoline/petrol' setting. And notified the OBDLink company of a flaw. They've already been gracious enough to have replaced the unit.

Also am wondering at the boost values being notably lower. A coincidence of a tank full of e85? Not something I would've expected given the higher octane of e85; even vs the 98 ron I have been running.

The hp estimates from the OBD readers are junk - they use math from the MAF and isn't really close to actual power.
Also you don't need a tank full of E85 in a stock car - 1 to 2 gallons for a full tank is enough to basically get to the max the stock ecu settings can optimize. After that you'll be slower and running lean. If you put a full tank without a tune your car is not going to be faster but actually slower - the E needs 30% more fuel flow for a given power level and the stock ECU cannot compensate for straight E85 out of the box without a tune for it.

My car doesn't even use the maf signal anymore on e50 - before I deleted the signal I had changed my maf housing to a 4" housing - the obd power reading said I was making around 430 when the actual dyno was around 550-560whp ....why? Because it was using the voltage signal of the maf and turning 4.3 = 430hp. Nothing to do with actual power being made....you'll notice they go to a max of 500....that's because the voltage is a max of 5v ....so 5v = 500hp ....sure....on a stock 3" maf housing maybe

If you want to know the actual power you are making you'll need a dyno that's properly calibrated. Combined with acceleration data and trap speed you can verify the power. Just using a voltage signal? Nah

If you want to run E you should get a flex fuel sensor and a tune specifically for it - your going to give your car issues running full E on a stock calibration.

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