Domino's Monochromatic Civic

[orange.nissan]

Hello, welcome to my build thread!

Basic Info:
2019 Honda Civic Touring Sedan 1.5T (L15B7) CVT
Modern Steel Metallic

If you've seen my Nissan, you know that it's the most eye-catching bright vivid orange color out there, so I think making my daily a tastefully modified array of chromes, grays, and some blacks would be a great contrast.

I'll be posting the general specs of my vehicle on my profile of course, but this thread will be for a more in-depth look at my car and the installation of my mods. My current vision for the car is to look sort of OEM+ in a way, I don't want to have a crazy wing, or a center exit triple tipped exhaust the size of a grapefruit launcher. The goal is for this car to look like it could have been a trim level that slots in above the touring and the Si in terms of comfort and performance respectively, but still below the Type R.

I'm planning: OEM+ Touring headlights (sequential turn signals), HKS Legamax Exhaust, A clean looking clear OEM+ taillights, Maybe an Si spoiler, but I want one with a cleared out brake light lense with red LEDs. I'm planning on either chrome or grey wheels, with Tein coilovers.

Performance mods won't be too crazy since I drive a CVT, I'm expecting an intake soon from 27Won, and I might do a downpipe as well (catted). I'm considering a blowoff valve, but I want to research that a little more before I buy it.

 

[orange.nissan]

My first "Modification" to the car was a set of clear LED side markers. I don't really consider it a modification but I wanted to start cleaning up the car a little bit, and the first way I'm going to do that is by getting rid of things that are unnecessary in my opinion.

I never liked the way orange side markers look, but for safety reasons I do want them to still be orange when on.

I found what I was looking for with @TypeRLEDs on their website, https://TypeRLEDs.com

Installation was straight forward, you'll only need a flathead screwdriver.

I pressed in this tab on the back of the sidemarker and it popped out a little bit.

From here, I was able to freely pull the sidemarker out, but carefully to avoid damaging the wires. The socket that holds the lightbulb twists 45° to reveal the bulb, and from here the original sidemarker is free, so I set it down.

The bulb just pulls straight out of the socket, and the wire on the back of my LED sidemarker just slots right into that light bulb's socket, almost like it is a lightbulb.

The hard part was tucking the extra wire into the new sidemarker assembly and getting the twist-on socket back on to my new sidemarker. The car's wires are short, so my kinda big fingers made it a pain to twist on the socket while also holding the sidemarker so close to the car. From there I just pushed the sidemarker back in to place gently but firmly. Here's the final product.

 

[orange.nissan]

27Won intake arrived yesterday but I was a fool and accidentally clicked street MAF instead of race MAF when ordering. Luckily @Vlad@27WON saw my request for an exchange and was kind enough to let me send my old one back for a new one! Top notch customer service over there at 27Won.

In other news, exhaust is still on the way, ETA is still mid April. I've picked out a nice set of wheels and tires that I'll probably buy in the summer (to squeeze out the last of my college commute on these tires before I send them off into my garage lol).

Tail lights are chosen, and will ship soon. Depending on what gets here first, my next post will either be installing my 27Won intake or my tail lights.

Still considering a spoiler/wing, but I want something that will be clean and OEM+ so I'm still considering an Si wing among other things.

 

[madchiller]

27Won intake arrived yesterday but I was a fool and accidentally clicked street MAF instead of race MAF when ordering. Luckily @Vlad@27WON saw my request for an exchange and was kind enough to let me send my old one back for a new one! Top notch customer service over there at 27Won.

you lose nothing by going street MAF and just gain issues with idle by going with the race MAF. street MAF is by far the superior choice.

 

[bluehatch17]

You need to be tuned to use the race maf FYI.

 

[orange.nissan]

You need to be tuned to use the race maf FYI.

Don't worry, I'm aware!

you lose nothing by going street MAF and just gain issues with idle by going with the race MAF. street MAF is by far the superior choice.

I'm going to be using the Phearable 1.5R tune, and from what I hear the 1.5R tune is better than the 1.5 tune, at least according to @gtman and I respect his opinions a lot. I prefer the 1.5R tune because it also removes artificial knock control, which remains in the 1.5 tune. I'll look into idle issues with the race MAF though, I haven't seen anything about that on the forum yet.

 

[gtman]

To be clear, the Phearable tune's "R" (or Race) designation has nothing to do with being race MAF required. It's just what Phearable calls their upgraded tunes.

When you order the tune you tell them which MAF you run and they'll send the proper tune file for whatever MAF scaling is needed.

I've run the standard 1.5 and the R version. The R version has a bit more power but mostly it's that artificial knock rise removal that's the main attraction, like you mentioned.

 

[orange.nissan]

To be clear, the Phearable tune's "R" (or Race) designation has nothing to do with being race MAF required. It's just what Phearable calls their upgraded tunes.

When you order the tune you tell them which MAF you run and they'll send the proper tune file for whatever MAF scaling is needed.

Thank you! That helps a lot. I might stick with my Street MAF, I still have a couple hours before I decide to send back the MAF or not.

 

[gtman]

I'd go with the street MAF as well.

 

[Memogiyi]

To be clear, the Phearable tune's "R" (or Race) designation has nothing to do with being race MAF required. It's just what Phearable calls their upgraded tunes.

When you order the tune you tell them which MAF you run and they'll send the proper tune file for whatever MAF scaling is needed.

I've run the standard 1.5 and the R version. The R version has a bit more power but mostly it's that artificial knock rise removal that's the main attraction, like you mentioned.

What is the purpose of the artificial knock control and the benefit of removing it?

 

[toastyJ]

What is the purpose of the artificial knock control and the benefit of removing it?

IIRC it's something to do with the non-si models or CVT models, gtman will chime in here. Also gtman ik I'll get to updating my post in the tuned cars thread.

But I gotta come in to support what others are saying here I would stick with the Street MAF. There's a thread somewhere explaining what causes the issue, but it's mostly Long Term fuel trim related.

 

[gtman]

@Memogiyi it's a Non-Si thing. Basically because the cars run on 87 octane stock, Honda artificially raises knock control anytime the cars go above 5200 rpm (to protect against bad gas). What this means is power is reduced until knock control comes back down. So if you do a second pull, it's dogshit basically.

On an OTS 93 octane tune there's no need for that artificial k. con rise. By removing the fake knock rise, you can do pull after pull on good gas (up to a point) with full power.

 

[gtman]

IIRC it's something to do with the non-si models or CVT models, gtman will chime in here. Also gtman ik I'll get to updating my post in the tuned cars thread.

But I gotta come in to support what others are saying here I would stick with the Street MAF. There's a thread somewhere explaining what causes the issue, but it's mostly Long Term fuel trim related.

Never update your old post. It'll get lost In the shuffle. Instead, do a new update post so I can see it and update the thread stats. Thanks.

 

[Memogiyi]

@Memogiyi it's a Non-Si thing. Basically because the cars run on 87 octane stock, Honda for "safety" reasons artificially raises knock control anytime the cars go above 5200 rpm to protect against bad gas. What this means is power is reduced until knock control comes back down. So if you do a second pull, it's dogshit basically.

On an OTS 93 octane tune there's no need for that artificial k. con rise. By removing the fake knock rise, you can do pull after pull on good gas (up to a point) with full power.

Gotcha! Thanks for the explanation.

IIRC it's something to do with the non-si models or CVT models, gtman will chime in here. Also gtman ik I'll get to updating my post in the tuned cars thread.

But I gotta come in to support what others are saying here I would stick with the Street MAF. There's a thread somewhere explaining what causes the issue, but it's mostly Long Term fuel trim related.

Got it! Ty!

 

[orange.nissan]

I'd go with the street MAF as well.

I'll be keeping the street MAF then! Thank you.

Since I'm stuck in California and mixing E85 isn't really convenient in my area, do you think it would be alright to run 91 Octane from a Chevron station? I know you aren't John Vega or anything, but on the website it says quality 91 octane required at a minimum. Just wanna make sure I'm getting everything I can out of my 91 octane lol.

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