1.5T 3 questions i HAVE TO ask

[panas]

I've been itching to ask these a really long time now and can't help it anymore.... So:

1) My first mod, 4years ago, is my short ram. I kept reading about people's opinions in here and was leaning towards the 2 most popular choices, PRL CAI and 27won. I actually wanted to get the 27won because of the much easier serviceability of the filter. What i could never understand and is troubling me until now, is where would those get the "cold" air from in a EUDM civic? (i do know cold air goes lower but still) All EUDM civics come with Honda sensing so there is NO vent where the CAI sits, because we have the radar/sensor with a black mirror plastic piece you can't really modify..

Back when i was in the market for an air intake i was seeing US members here posting their CAI photos with a front garnish that had at least some holes. I watched some of you even dril more holes which i would def do as well, if i had those garnishes. So i opted for a short ram as i thought i would at least have the OEM air supply near..

2) 2years ago when i got my MIshimoto intercooler, i left my OEM pipes on because i didn't like the idea of paying that much money to go from plastic tubes to metal ones that will inevitably suck heat. Back then the vargas option didn't exist. https://vargasturbo.com/product/vtt...th-gen-one-piece-6-ply-silicone-charge-pipes/ . I'm still on the OEM turbo and i know this is not a cost-efficient upgrade but i'm one click from getting those since they came out. Coming to my 2nd question, what i didn't like from my intercooler upgrade is the somewhat lag feeling because of the bigger volume the turbo struggles to pressurise. Will those Vargas pipes dilate increasing turbo lag OR is that wire reinforced silicone that strong it'll only benefit my car's performance?
3) Less important but i always thought if my engine blows or later at some point, i will get forged internals. After "educating" myself a bit and considering the car is my daily, i love it and i intend to keep it until the wheels fall off, i've come to realise that forged internals have an "expiry date"? I've been reading about cold starts/4032, 2618 alloy/piston slap etc and if i understand correctly although a forged engine will normally not break, expansion/piston slap on cold starts will gradually eat your cylinder walls so it's not a 200k+ km life option. Is that correct? Also will a 4032 low expansion alloy option like https://pumaspeedpistonstore.com/products/wossner-honda-civic-1-5-16v-turbo-forged-piston-kit give me an OEM longlife with the benefits of a forged engine?

 

[panas]

Come on people! @gtman my annual update on your tuning thread is closing up and i want to include intercooler pipes as well (!), so i need at least question 2 answered to decide! @86salmon and other senior members here that know better..

 

[Romeoridgee]

1. as you drive, air flows all throughout the bumper, and when your intake sucks in the air, new air surrounds the inlet. I do like the 27won intake out of all of them because of their high filer, low inlet design. there is an intake on I think its called fxracing that has the intake run through the fog light, not sure if you want to delete your driver fog light.

2. those hoses are 6ply, they aint stretching for shit lol. yes, bigger volume in your post turbo charge piping the more lag you will have.

3. cant answer your 3rd question, but i recommend swapping in the k20c4 engine and c1/c4 transmission if your car is stick, uses oem engine harness or c4 harness, both have to be modified, oem ecu, need custom axles tho.

 

[eob2000]

1. as you drive, air flows all throughout the bumper, and when your intake sucks in the air, new air surrounds the inlet. I do like the 27won intake out of all of them because of their high filer, low inlet design. there is an intake on I think its called fxracing that has the intake run through the fog light, not sure if you want to delete your driver fog light.

2. those hoses are 6ply, they aint stretching for shit lol. yes, bigger volume in your post turbo charge piping the more lag you will have.

3. cant answer your 3rd question, but i recommend swapping in the k20c4 engine and c1/c4 transmission if your car is stick, uses oem engine harness or c4 harness, both have to be modified, oem ecu, need custom axles tho.

The only euro cars with any form of the K20C are the FK8 and FL5 with the K20C1. The "easy" accord K20C4 swap is unfortunately not so easy over here. If I end up blowing my motor I'll probably get a low mileage L15BY from a CR-V and build that unless there's some big catch I'm missing.

 

[Romeoridgee]

The only euro cars with any form of the K20C are the FK8 and FL5 with the K20C1. The "easy" accord K20C4 swap is unfortunately not so easy over here. If I end up blowing my motor I'll probably get a low mileage L15BY from a CR-V and build that unless there's some big catch I'm missing.

i dont know your import laws, but its definitely doable. sounds good.

 

[eob2000]

i dont know your import laws, but its definitely doable. sounds good.

I guess an import of the K20C4 would be doable, not sure about parts availability when needed but I guess a lot of the CTR/C1 parts would work. Thankfully the L15BY CR-V was sold domestically so I can get those anywhere if I go that route.

OP has a Sedan so I guess already has the B7 or BY? I'm actually interested as to what engine it is because I didn't realise the Sedan was sold in Europe with anything other than the 1.6 Diesel. I thought the 1.5s were all the hatches with the BA. I would assume in OP's case it's probably a Japanese built car with the L15BY?

 

[panas]

1. as you drive, air flows all throughout the bumper, and when your intake sucks in the air, new air surrounds the inlet. I do like the 27won intake out of all of them because of their high filer, low inlet design. there is an intake on I think its called fxracing that has the intake run through the fog light, not sure if you want to delete your driver fog light.

2. those hoses are 6ply, they aint stretching for shit lol. yes, bigger volume in your post turbo charge piping the more lag you will have.

3. cant answer your 3rd question, but i recommend swapping in the k20c4 engine and c1/c4 transmission if your car is stick, uses oem engine harness or c4 harness, both have to be modified, oem ecu, need custom axles tho.

Thanks for the answer.
1. Yeah I was looking at that FX racing tube but didn't want to cancel my fog light.. Those 2 intakes suck air from that specific part at the lowest part of the engine bay. The only air that goes in there from the bumper is the one that already went through the intercooler& radiator. That's why I am confused! What you say applies for an SRI. Up there you indeed have more than 1 airflows..
2. Yes you're right about the more volume=lag but just because of the pipes I don't believe the difference is tangible. If those pipes dilate a bit on top of that, on the other hand..
3. Nahh that's too complicate, needing custom axles etc (we've seen it with the few members that have done it), so I would only ever do the forged option..

 

[panas]

I guess an import of the K20C4 would be doable, not sure about parts availability when needed but I guess a lot of the CTR/C1 parts would work. Thankfully the L15BY CR-V was sold domestically so I can get those anywhere if I go that route.

OP has a Sedan so I guess already has the B7 or BY? I'm actually interested as to what engine it is because I didn't realise the Sedan was sold in Europe with anything other than the 1.6 Diesel. I thought the 1.5s were all the hatches with the BA. I would assume in OP's case it's probably a Japanese built car with the L15BY?

All European sedans are made in the powerplant in Turkey and yes they come with either the 1.6 diesel or the 1.5t. Mine has a BB engine which I have never seen anyone in here mention...

 

[eob2000]

All European sedans are made in the powerplant in Turkey and yes they come with either the 1.6 diesel or the 1.5t. Mine has a BB engine which I have never seen anyone in here mention...

BB huh, that's a new one to me. Not on the Wikipedia page either, wonder which rods that uses. Amazing that Honda felt the need to make so many versions of the same damn engine.

 

[panas]

Yeah, I've been here actively 4years and no one has ever mentioned it.. I'm starting to believe this might be a typo on my registration... Tried but couldn't see the actual number on the motor..

 

[eob2000]

Yeah, I've been here actively 4years and no one has ever mention it.. I'm starting to believe this might be a typo on my registration... Tried but couldn't see the actual number on the motor..

My engine code is printed on one of the door jamb stickers (The one with the weight ratings), have you looked there also?

 

[Benster]

I would only worry about piston slap if you can't let the engine warm up some before you drive it and fully warm before you get on boost. If you can stay with stock internals, which can take around 350ft-lbs on the engine you got, I would though. A good tune will ensure there is no detonation chance and that your torque stays lower than that. If you're looking to upgrade your turbo but stay on the stock size frame you should be ok. Bigger intercooler pipes will increase lag, but may help lower your intake temps and max boost pressure as it doesn't have to work as hard to push the air through the bigger pipes. That's how I understand it anyway. At one point, bigger isn't better but the tiny 1.5" stock pipes are probably a restriction with any turbo upgrade or higher boost levels.

 

[panas]

My engine code is printed on one of the door jamb stickers (The one with the weight ratings), have you looked there also?

I have checked that sticker more than once, looking for my paint color code & I cannot understand how I didn't see that.. Yep, it's a BB engine.. @Hondanickx you have the same one, right? Any info on our rods?

 

[gtman]

L15BB. Another one? Wow, this the second time this month we've seen a 10th gen Civic with an obscure version of the L15. Honda sure doesn't like to keep it simple.

 

[gtman]

Also, my take on upgrading the charge pipes...

If the money's not an issue, go for it. There's no major drawback. But, if it was me, and I'm on the stock turbo, I'd spend my mod money on something else. In other words, it's not a "must do" mod with your setup.

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