**The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!**

MediaMaster

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Any luck / updates on this? I haven't installed myself so eager for info.
Oil cooler is installed. Actually fits pretty well. Very poor documentation. B&W copies that weren't that good to start with. Poor quality photos. Seriously, they can't afford to do a three page manual in color???

Car is now over at a friends shop to complete the rest. I'm 75 so crawling around the floor is not my cup of tea and that engine compartment is tight.
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Oil cooler is installed. Actually fits pretty well. Very poor documentation. B&W copies that weren't that good to start with. Poor quality photos. Seriously, they can't afford to do a three page manual in color???

Car is now over at a friends shop to complete the rest. I'm 75 so crawling around the floor is not my cup of tea and that engine compartment is tight.
Oof... well if you have any tips to share please do lol.
 

MediaMaster

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Oof... well if you have any tips to share please do lol.
I just followed Fatherpain's guide to take the bumper off. Route the oil line cables through the hole they suggest. Just make sure they go thru and down towards the front of the opening. The oil lines fit along the tray in front and get fastened right above that on a cross member piece.

I'm pretty sure the 90 degree fittings that go into the cooler (for attaching the oil lines to the cooler) need to be tightened more than hand tight and that is not mentioned anywhere. The friend who stopped over to help pointed that out.
 
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AlphaDigital

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Oof... well if you have any tips to share please do lol.
I did the greddy one on my own, its not too bad but im not sure if the HEL cooler is different for routing. Thankfully, grimace provided me some extra rubber pieces to use on the lines to avoid rubbing on some of the more harder surfaces theyre routed through. Buy yourself a pack of zip ties, they come in handy when wanting to keep the lines situated!
 
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AlphaDigital

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Honda Civic 10th gen **The FK8 Track Junkie Thread!!** 1000003901


I've been getting some wonky readings from my oil temp sensor that's in the thermostatic plate for the oil cooler. So I decided to order this oil drain bolt from STM that has a 1/8npt thread in the center. This allows for better oil contact with the sensor itself, so hopefully I can get more accurate readings.
 


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1000003901.jpg


I've been getting some wonky readings from my oil temp sensor that's in the thermostatic plate for the oil cooler. So I decided to order this oil drain bolt from STM that has a 1/8npt thread in the center. This allows for better oil contact with the sensor itself, so hopefully I can get more accurate readings.
Same...I'm moving my temp sensor to the pan in the STM plug and I'll run pressure off my sandwich plate.
 

Markymark35

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For a dual purpose or track car I would go with the EBC or Giro rotors since they're floating rotors. For a car that isn't used on track I'd go with the DBA since they're fixed rotors.

The Giros are definitely the best bang for the buck but EBC metallurgy is a bit more advanced and the coatings they use help keep things nicer in the long term. You can't go wrong with either though!
How do you feel about the 2 piece 5000 series DBA?
 
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How do you feel about the 2 piece 5000 series DBA?
DBA 5000 rotors are very high quality. I've used them on my own cars and have plenty of friends and customers who use them too with no issues. If you aren't going to track your car it's my top choice for a 2 piece rotor.
 

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Hopefully a clear enough question!

Antiroll bars and do I need one?

Consensus "appears" to be a stiffer rear helps in some form, but I've never fitted them to any of my previous cars so I'm somewhat ignorant of them generally. As it stands I'm fairly happy with the car setup with:
- hardrace ball joints for camber
- hardrace rear control arms for camber
- spoon rigids
- powerflex antilift + associated bushings
- LE ADS

Is an antiroll bar going to remove a significant enough time from my laps, help with tyre wear or general stability enough to invest?

If it helps with turn-in then cool, means I can back off trail braking like a hooligan to a degree (don't know I'm making assumptions here lol). Any advice welcome, although if the next real "upgrade" is a set of coilovers then I'd rather just enjoy the car for a few more years before I chop it in and get an Exige 380 and call it a day on mods.
 


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I have lots of front camber but left the rear alone at about -2 degrees. Even with that, my tire wear indicates I need more rear camber but doing that is only going to increase rear grip and make the car understeer more. That is why I have installed a stiffer rear sway bar for this season. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.

Have you added the rear adjustable control arms to increase rear camber or decrease it?
 

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I have lots of front camber but left the rear alone at about -2 degrees. Even with that, my tire wear indicates I need more rear camber but doing that is only going to increase rear grip and make the car understeer more. That is why I have installed a stiffer rear sway bar for this season. Haven't had a chance to use it yet.

Have you added the rear adjustable control arms to increase rear camber or decrease it?
Added them to go from around 2 to 2.3. So from reading your use case it sounds like I could have a little more understeer. First track day of the season for me is hopefully this month so I’ll be testing the new setup soon!

I’ll work on the assumption the rear bar is there to act as an understeer balancing attribute then.
 

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DBA 5000 rotors are very high quality. I've used them on my own cars and have plenty of friends and customers who use them too with no issues. If you aren't going to track your car it's my top choice for a 2 piece rotor.
copy. for sure gonna track it lol
 
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Very first track day of my life today. For a rookie, I think it went well. Impressed with the CTR. Ended up running a 1:31 at NHMS North Chicane/south oval. Definitely didn’t set any records but given my experience and the fact the car is bone stock, I’ll take it! Unfortunately no good action shots.

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