Autocross STH Class thread!

[Dom360]

I've just put BR Series Coilovers for 2017+ Honda Civic Non-Si 1.5T Hatchback onto my car. I was wondering what camber y'all would recommend?

P.S. 18x9.5+38 enkei RPF1 wheels and 255/35r-18 RE-71rs

Let’s back track a little, are you planning on running in STH cause if so you’re limited to a 9” wide wheel. Find out if you have camber plated im sure they came with them, you’re going to want to take advantage of that and run more camber than -1

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[Benbunny]

Let’s back track a little, are you planning on running in STH cause if so you’re limited to a 9” wide wheel. Find out if you have camber plated im sure they came with them, you’re going to want to take advantage of that and run more camber than -1

Ah you caught me, I have the wrong size wheels. I only run STH in my club because it's very "for fun" and I was told to buy the wrong size wheel before I knew any better . I've checked with the organizers and they're fine with it and so are the other STH guys there. For events I'm not familiar with I go SMF

 

[FC1Dawn]

Had two events this weekend. Crazy how well a gallon of E85 + 91 keeps knock control in check. Was at 0.49-0.52 the entire time on MAP 2. Cleaned my MAF sensor the Friday before and my fuel trims went back to normal (0%) on the way to the events. Auto cross fuel trims were just fine as well (0% to -2%, had some areas where it dropped to -8% but even out back to -2%), no issues at all.

Question regarding tire temps, anyone have any insight on optimal tire temperatures for RE71RS's? I currently just go by feel. If it's too hot to keep my hand there, I spray the entire wheel down. I haven't picked up an IR temp sensor yet but I normally spray my wheels after every 2 runs. I'm afraid I'm not letting these tires get up to optimal temps.

I do spray the intercooler, radiator, and then turn on AC full blast to get air moving. Certainly helps with temperatures.

 

[Benster]

I can't give you a temp to go by, but what you're doing is definitely good. If they get too hot to keep your hand on, they'll get greasy and not grip optimally. They'll also start shredding off much quicker.
Thanks for the tip on running AC, didn't think about that to engage the 2nd fan.

Also wish I had access to E85 here, only 91 max in this forsaken province. If I want more, I have to use octane booster, which I found didn't really work that much more than just 91.

On a side note, I got all my mods installed last weekend, adjustable ball joints, strut locks, front sway bar links and an alignment. The shop was only able to get me -1 deg up front, I think my subframe isn't straight as the guy said he could get 2 on one side and just one on the other. Those magic collars are starting to feel pretty mandatory IMO. Can't get more angle unless I do this or get coilovers with camber plates.

I can tell the adjustable sway bar links are there as the car feels a little tighter on bumps and un-even road than before. Even my wife felt it so it must be there. 14mm aluminum pieces vs a 1/2" plastic rod, yeah, probably stiffer.

 

[FC1Dawn]

I can't give you a temp to go by, but what you're doing is definitely good. If they get too hot to keep your hand on, they'll get greasy and not grip optimally. They'll also start shredding off much quicker.
Thanks for the tip on running AC, didn't think about that to engage the 2nd fan.

Also wish I had access to E85 here, only 91 max in this forsaken province. If I want more, I have to use octane booster, which I found didn't really work that much more than just 91.

On a side note, I got all my mods installed last weekend, adjustable ball joints, strut locks, front sway bar links and an alignment. The shop was only able to get me -1 deg up front, I think my subframe isn't straight as the guy said he could get 2 on one side and just one on the other. Those magic collars are starting to feel pretty mandatory IMO. Can't get more angle unless I do this or get coilovers with camber plates.

I can tell the adjustable sway bar links are there as the car feels a little tighter on bumps and un-even road than before. Even my wife felt it so it must be there. 14mm aluminum pieces vs a 1/2" plastic rod, yeah, probably stiffer.

Good to know, thanks. Turning on the AC helped drop ECT temps by +20F degrees. IAT2's dropped as well when spraying and turning the AC on. Kept the hood up at grid.

Note on the octane booster, I don't think those are recommended so you are probably better off sticking with 91.

Great update for you, hopefully you can get that subframe straightened out. I will say, rear sway bar is such a wonderful upgrade.

 

[Dom360]

Good to know, thanks. Turning on the AC helped drop ECT temps by +20F degrees. IAT2's dropped as well when spraying and turning the AC on. Kept the hood up at grid.

Note on the octane booster, I don't think those are recommended so you are probably better off sticking with 91.

Great update for you, hopefully you can get that subframe straightened out. I will say, rear sway bar is such a wonderful upgrade.

Just ran my first event with the eibach rear subframe brace + adjustable end links and it was such an improvement in handling vs just the 26mm whiteline bar plus whiteline end links.

Another big piece so far this year has been a $7 child seat clip to keep the seatbelt tight on the waist. Can brake hard now without getting thrown all over the place

 

[Benbunny]

One of the few issues I have with this car is that I'm too damn tall . I have to recline my seat so far to accomodate my head with the helmet on.

 

[Dom360]

One of the few issues I have with this car is that I'm too damn tall . I have to recline my seat so far to accomodate my head with the helmet on.

No no you need to hunch forward lol

 

[Chris_19Si]

I've seen a couple posts about adjustable ball joints for more camber. I did this a while back and felt the difference on turn-in, and enjoyed it until the SPC joints fell apart. The joints also slipped pretty bad with the slotted bolt holes. I had to put spacers in the slots to keep the joints from moving. My main point is how much thread engagement there was with the tie rods on the steering links. I had about a 1/4" engagement due to the ball joint being pushed out so much. It was even worse when the alignment shop tried to straighten my steering wheel a smidge by adjusting the tie rods. I went back to stock ball joints until I can find a more durable solution. I looked at some Spoon joints recently, but I measured bump steer before and after and those joints made it worse by themselves. I posted my results for that in a thread I posted.

Has anyone looked at their thread engagement on their tie rods with these adjustable ball joints? Mine did not seem like enough to be safe for track loads.

 

[Chris_19Si]

Question regarding tire temps, anyone have any insight on optimal tire temperatures for RE71RS's? I currently just go by feel. If it's too hot to keep my hand there, I spray the entire wheel down. I haven't picked up an IR temp sensor yet but I normally spray my wheels after every 2 runs. I'm afraid I'm not letting these tires get up to optimal temps.

I run a different tire, but I use a pyrometer with an adjustable probe. The idea behind the probe is the last lap temperature is recorded deeper in the rubber. The surface of the tire changes quickly as you work your way back to grid, making those measurements unreliable. I check the outside, middle, and inner tread to see how my pressures are doing. Even temps across the tire are ideal. I typically see about 125F on the inside fronts, and 120ish on the outside. Rears are around 110-115F across the tire. I'm on Falken 615's right now, but will move up to the 660's next season. Make sure when you talk to other people about their temps that you know how they are measuring them. My tire starts to fall off over 125F. Max grip for me at 30psig all around seems to be between 110 and 120F using the probe.

Here is a link to my probe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JVFTTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[Benster]

I've seen a couple posts about adjustable ball joints for more camber. I did this a while back and felt the difference on turn-in, and enjoyed it until the SPC joints fell apart. The joints also slipped pretty bad with the slotted bolt holes. I had to put spacers in the slots to keep the joints from moving. My main point is how much thread engagement there was with the tie rods on the steering links. I had about a 1/4" engagement due to the ball joint being pushed out so much. It was even worse when the alignment shop tried to straighten my steering wheel a smidge by adjusting the tie rods. I went back to stock ball joints until I can find a more durable solution. I looked at some Spoon joints recently, but I measured bump steer before and after and those joints made it worse by themselves. I posted my results for that in a thread I posted.

Has anyone looked at their thread engagement on their tie rods with these adjustable ball joints? Mine did not seem like enough to be safe for track loads.

I haven't looked as the alignment shop did the work and I couldn't go in, but I'll definitely keep and eye on the ball joint bolts, probably paint mark them and verify after each day.

got my first day on the 11th so I'll post some results on the 12th most likely.

 

[Chris_19Si]

I haven't looked as the alignment shop did the work and I couldn't go in, but I'll definitely keep and eye on the ball joint bolts, probably paint mark them and verify after each day.

got my first day on the 11th so I'll post some results on the 12th most likely.

If you have the joints set for max camber and sporting 660's, you should have enough grip to move the joints. You'll know because your steering wheel will be screwed up. If that's the case, don't panic. Just loosen and reset the joint that moved. I have a fix for it if it does. Definitely check how much thread engagement you have on the tie rods. I was shocked to see how little there was on my setup. It was about one rod diameter engaged, but if someone adjusts one side to correct your steering wheel, you will have very few threads engaged as was my discovery. Camber wasn't as important as my life! Have fun at the event. Already got two under my belt this year.

 

[FC1Dawn]

I run a different tire, but I use a pyrometer with an adjustable probe. The idea behind the probe is the last lap temperature is recorded deeper in the rubber. The surface of the tire changes quickly as you work your way back to grid, making those measurements unreliable. I check the outside, middle, and inner tread to see how my pressures are doing. Even temps across the tire are ideal. I typically see about 125F on the inside fronts, and 120ish on the outside. Rears are around 110-115F across the tire. I'm on Falken 615's right now, but will move up to the 660's next season. Make sure when you talk to other people about their temps that you know how they are measuring them. My tire starts to fall off over 125F. Max grip for me at 30psig all around seems to be between 110 and 120F using the probe.

Here is a link to my probe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005JVFTTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Appreciate your insight! I’ll look into this in more detail.

In regards to your front adjustable ball joints, I haven’t noticed anything but will keep an eye out.

 

[Benster]

If you have the joints set for max camber and sporting 660's, you should have enough grip to move the joints. You'll know because your steering wheel will be screwed up. If that's the case, don't panic. Just loosen and reset the joint that moved. I have a fix for it if it does. Definitely check how much thread engagement you have on the tie rods. I was shocked to see how little there was on my setup. It was about one rod diameter engaged, but if someone adjusts one side to correct your steering wheel, you will have very few threads engaged as was my discovery. Camber wasn't as important as my life! Have fun at the event. Already got two under my belt this year.

Def not maxed out, he only gave me -1 deg of camber up front, but I'll probably have a look at it this week-end when I service my brakes. Maybe I'll ask my welder to make me some spacers to take up the room in the ball joint like the strut locks.

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