Perfect Oil Change Intervals Experiment

Nessism

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Same for me was running de 0w-20 ( 5 years ) oem oil at the dealer with bg oil and my oil always smell gas and when I switched to 0w-40 signature amsoil no more gas smell and when I looked up my catch can the oil smelled gas. Before both smelled gas on the oem oil. In my conclusion amsoil is better for the gas dilution for sure.

My tech was suprising by this, he never had a 1.5t with out gas smell.
I'd love to hear the technical justification as to why thinner oil leads to more gasoline dilution. This makes no sense to me.
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Zedaine

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I'd love to hear the technical justification as to why thinner oil leads to more gasoline dilution. This makes no sense to me.
There could be a few reasons, only one I can think off the top of my head is higher viscosity oil may run hotter which could aid in burning off any fuel in the oil.

The only proof I have is in my oil analysis in running 0w40 vs 5w30. The flash point of my 0w40 after 5000 miles is much higher than the flashpoint of the 5w30 oils running approximately the same mileage. All Amsoil Signature Series as well.

Some argue blackstone's testing methods of fuel dilution isn't accurate and it is better to look at the flashpoint instead, since fuel dilution will lower the flashpoint of the oil.

Honda Civic 10th gen Perfect Oil Change Intervals Experiment jboilanaylsis
 

Charlie

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Let it go. There's no coming back from using a crusher washer 7 times in a row. Sucks to have an innocuous comment discussed in that manner isn't it? Next time, don't be a smart arse. Take the lesson and move on. There's nothing left to see here.
 

alxgravel

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I'd love to hear the technical justification as to why thinner oil leads to more gasoline dilution. This makes no sense to me.
I'm just trying to tell people what I experience with my si. I did alot with it and in december car is paid off and it will be 7 years ownership with the 10th gen platform.
 

Nessism

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Let it go. There's no coming back from using a crusher washer 7 times in a row. Sucks to have an innocuous comment discussed in that manner isn't it? Next time, don't be a smart arse. Take the lesson and move on. There's nothing left to see here.
Dude, I'm not butt hurt by someone saying I'm dumb to reuse the crush washer. I don't care what others say. I own my comment, and provided technical justification and reasoning. Where is your technical justification for double changing your oil?
 
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Charlie

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I can never take anything you say seriously now that I know you've used a crusher washer 7 times in a row. It's ludicrous.
 

Benster

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I can never take anything you say seriously now that I know you've used a crusher washer 7 times in a row. It's ludicrous.
Lol, I'm on the same crush washer the car came with and just hit 92k miles today. Still no leak.
On the note of oil changes, I do mine at 10k km or between 6-6.5k miles. I drive the car about the same as the OP with Amsoil OE 5w-30. It is black when I drain it, but if you've EVER worked on diesels, the oil goes black after the first 100km so oil color means nothing to me. My catch can picks up most of the oil and condensation the engine has and super happy I put it on for that reason alone. The oil also feels a lot better since the catch can went on.
 

Charlie

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Lol, I'm on the same crush washer the car came with and just hit 92k miles today. Still no leak.
On the note of oil changes, I do mine at 10k km or between 6-6.5k miles. I drive the car about the same as the OP with Amsoil OE 5w-30. It is black when I drain it, but if you've EVER worked on diesels, the oil goes black after the first 100km so oil color means nothing to me. My catch can picks up most of the oil and condensation the engine has and super happy I put it on for that reason alone. The oil also feels a lot better since the catch can went on.
That's fine. My point earlier was a learning moment for the other person. Thank you for saying it in a respectful manner.
 


Nessism

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Lol, I'm on the same crush washer the car came with and just hit 92k miles today. Still no leak.
On the note of oil changes, I do mine at 10k km or between 6-6.5k miles. I drive the car about the same as the OP with Amsoil OE 5w-30. It is black when I drain it, but if you've EVER worked on diesels, the oil goes black after the first 100km so oil color means nothing to me. My catch can picks up most of the oil and condensation the engine has and super happy I put it on for that reason alone. The oil also feels a lot better since the catch can went on.
OMG!!!! 92k on the first crush washer! You can't be trusted!! (Just kidding!)

Well done, sir!

I'm too cheap to run Amsoil. I can appreciate that it's great oil, though.

I've run a few changes with 5W-30, and compared to 0W-20, in my experience, the engine feels smoother, and a touch more sluggish, when cold. My commute is short, and the engine is just getting to full operating temperature when I shut it down, so I've stuck with 0W-20, because it flows nicely when cold. If I had a longer commute, in hot temps, I'd go for 5W-30 regularly.
 

Nessism

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There could be a few reasons, only one I can think off the top of my head is higher viscosity oil may run hotter which could aid in burning off any fuel in the oil.

The only proof I have is in my oil analysis in running 0w40 vs 5w30. The flash point of my 0w40 after 5000 miles is much higher than the flashpoint of the 5w30 oils running approximately the same mileage. All Amsoil Signature Series as well.

Some argue blackstone's testing methods of fuel dilution isn't accurate and it is better to look at the flashpoint instead, since fuel dilution will lower the flashpoint of the oil.
Oil dilution occurs when gasoline slips past the rings, and gets into the crankcase oil. What may be happening, is the thicker oil is blocking the gas at the oil rings. 40 weight oil is quite thick for these engines, though. The bearing clearances are not set up for such thick oil. Proof is in the pudding, though. If your car is durable over the long term, that's all you need to know. And speaking of that, I haven't read of anyone damaging their engine due to oil dilution. Some people consider the issue with a "sky is falling" perspective, though.
 

Benster

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OMG!!!! 92k on the first crush washer! You can't be trusted!! (Just kidding!)

Well done, sir!

I'm too cheap to run Amsoil. I can appreciate that it's great oil, though.

I've run a few changes with 5W-30, and compared to 0W-20, in my experience, the engine feels smoother, and a touch more sluggish, when cold. My commute is short, and the engine is just getting to full operating temperature when I shut it down, so I've stuck with 0W-20, because it flows nicely when cold. If I had a longer commute, in hot temps, I'd go for 5W-30 regularly.
the OE Amsoil is about as cheap as castrol synthetic when you're a preferred customer and since I have a few co-workers that like amsoil, I get free membership renewal every year so my oil changes cost me about 55$CAD.
 

Nessism

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the OE Amsoil is about as cheap as castrol synthetic when you're a preferred customer and since I have a few co-workers that like amsoil, I get free membership renewal every year so my oil changes cost me about 55$CAD.
$55 CAD = $40 USD

My last oil purchase was $43 USD for two 5 quart jugs of Quaker State synthetic. I previously used Castrol Magnatec, before it was discontinued. I'm not picky, as long as the oil is synthetic, preferably from a major brand, I'm good.
 
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Benster

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$55 CAD = $40 USD

My last oil purchase was $43 USD for two 5 quart jugs of Quaker State synthetic. No Amsoil for me...
Your choice, not partial to quaker state, I prefer paying a bit more and know I get good quality oil. I'll never go to the super premium stuff unless I have a built motor either. But if you use it and never had engine issues then it doesn't really matter. Most newer synthetic oils are fairly close to each other in terms of performance if you do regular oil changes. It's once you start wanting to stretch your intervals that getting higher quality stuff becomes more important.
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