Redwing
Senior Member
- Joined
- Oct 15, 2021
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 132
- Reaction score
- 187
- Location
- Waco,Texas
- Vehicle(s)
- 2018 Honda Civic si coupe
I agree with almost every one before me. There are plenty of people, plenty experience, and plenty of builds to look at and choose to model after. There are a few hidden details on the 1.5L that I would like to mention for maxing reliability. Some more obvious than others I have found.
Transmission:
- These tiny turbo engines can make a lot of torque. An advanced tune is likely to slip the stock clutch.
- Although there are many options for clutch upgrades, the RV6 type-R retrofit clutch and flywheel seems to be the best.
- The transmission gears and synchros seem to fail around 400 lb*ft of torque - that is not an exact value. There is NEVER a magic number to failure, but usually people are looking at straight cut gears if they get close to that number.
Bolt-on and Tuning Upgrades
- Without a tune, you could put on every bolt-on under the sun and it's possible you might not make more power than stock. For better or worse.
-In regards to reliability, everything revolves around tuning. You can blow up an engine with no bolt-on's just as easily as making a crazy build reliable.
-To keep things reliable you need a custom conservative tune by a trustworthy tuner.
Engine Internals:
- Cylinder pressure seems to be the enemy of this engine. Low RPM with a small turbo means very large cylinder pressures. When at low RPM pushing high boost (not an exact number but like 28psi), the internals have a high failure rate without one of three changes: upgrades, tuning, or driving style.
-Upgrading head studs seems like a good reliability thing. Rods are too if you are needing a 4-Bar MAP sensor.
Fuels and Turbos
- The stock turbo is not optimized for power. In addition, some CVT owners have found, going to a larger turbo can increase reliability by decreasing low end spool/torque.
-The stock fuel system seems to run at 100% duty cycle around 350 wheel horsepower. This means to avoid injector failure, or fuel starvation, either upgrade the fuel system or don't make that kind of power.
-Flex-fuel can be safe, but running only e85 for long periods is questionable. People also often push the limits of power when tuning with e85 mixes - don't do that. If you want reliable, get a tune that reflects that.
Quality of Life
- Getting an upgraded shifter assembly is amazing. There are many options, but the quality of life improvement is a yes in my book.
- Lighter wheels and stickier tires are mandatory. No exceptions.
- Motor mounts, specifically rear motor mounts (RMM), are a well worth double edged sword. They improve wheel hop and stability at the cost comfort. Maybe PRL has there RMM be an exception. Most I have seen are an adjustment to daily life with harsh vibrations at idle under load. If you live somewhere you need to blast the AC it's probably going to be bad idling without a tune to compensate.
- Suspension upgrades change the feel of the car. Structure reinforcement less so.
- Sway bars can make the tail slip out or stay put.
- Wheel bearings have a likeliness of failure under heavy track use... maybe Honda just had a bad batch in 2016...
- You don't really need big brake kits until you go to the race track. If you plan on going to racing events, 10/10 would recommend.
-Not letting the car heat up and/or only using the car for very short trips is bad. It can lead to oil dilution, amongst other things.
Transmission:
- These tiny turbo engines can make a lot of torque. An advanced tune is likely to slip the stock clutch.
- Although there are many options for clutch upgrades, the RV6 type-R retrofit clutch and flywheel seems to be the best.
- The transmission gears and synchros seem to fail around 400 lb*ft of torque - that is not an exact value. There is NEVER a magic number to failure, but usually people are looking at straight cut gears if they get close to that number.
Bolt-on and Tuning Upgrades
- Without a tune, you could put on every bolt-on under the sun and it's possible you might not make more power than stock. For better or worse.
-In regards to reliability, everything revolves around tuning. You can blow up an engine with no bolt-on's just as easily as making a crazy build reliable.
-To keep things reliable you need a custom conservative tune by a trustworthy tuner.
Engine Internals:
- Cylinder pressure seems to be the enemy of this engine. Low RPM with a small turbo means very large cylinder pressures. When at low RPM pushing high boost (not an exact number but like 28psi), the internals have a high failure rate without one of three changes: upgrades, tuning, or driving style.
-Upgrading head studs seems like a good reliability thing. Rods are too if you are needing a 4-Bar MAP sensor.
Fuels and Turbos
- The stock turbo is not optimized for power. In addition, some CVT owners have found, going to a larger turbo can increase reliability by decreasing low end spool/torque.
-The stock fuel system seems to run at 100% duty cycle around 350 wheel horsepower. This means to avoid injector failure, or fuel starvation, either upgrade the fuel system or don't make that kind of power.
-Flex-fuel can be safe, but running only e85 for long periods is questionable. People also often push the limits of power when tuning with e85 mixes - don't do that. If you want reliable, get a tune that reflects that.
Quality of Life
- Getting an upgraded shifter assembly is amazing. There are many options, but the quality of life improvement is a yes in my book.
- Lighter wheels and stickier tires are mandatory. No exceptions.
- Motor mounts, specifically rear motor mounts (RMM), are a well worth double edged sword. They improve wheel hop and stability at the cost comfort. Maybe PRL has there RMM be an exception. Most I have seen are an adjustment to daily life with harsh vibrations at idle under load. If you live somewhere you need to blast the AC it's probably going to be bad idling without a tune to compensate.
- Suspension upgrades change the feel of the car. Structure reinforcement less so.
- Sway bars can make the tail slip out or stay put.
- Wheel bearings have a likeliness of failure under heavy track use... maybe Honda just had a bad batch in 2016...
- You don't really need big brake kits until you go to the race track. If you plan on going to racing events, 10/10 would recommend.
-Not letting the car heat up and/or only using the car for very short trips is bad. It can lead to oil dilution, amongst other things.
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