Fatherpain’s 2018 Type R

[fatherpain]

This connector slides onto the existing one and snaps in. It doesn’t plug into anything, so I believe it’s used to daisy chain power for a door sill LED.

It doesn’t plug into anything, so I believe it’s used to daisy chain power for a door sill LED, which will be added soon.

To connect the ground wire, this 10mm bolt removed and this green connector needs to be unplugged.

A ratchet with extension works

There is a 2nd bolt below that also comes off.

Again a ratchet is handy.

Green plug undone.

Gently pull the grey module forward to expose the ground connection.

 

[fatherpain]

Remove this bolt securing the existing ground wires.

It’s a little awkward to reach but a short extension did the trick.

Here is the wireless charging dock ground wire inserted to that bolt. Suggest inserting a small amount of painter’s tape inside the socket to keep the bolt from falling out while re-engaging it.

Screw the bolt and wireless ground through the existing grounds.

Plug the green connector back in and bolt the module in place.

Again, the instructions called for a 20A fuse to be installed but there already was one.

Reconnect the cover under the steering wheel. Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected then fire up the car.

If correct, the green power light should come on.

Place a phone on the pad and the light switches to amber and your phone should indicate it’s charging.

Unfortunately, as someone mentioned the wireless charge rate is somewhat slow.

 

[fatherpain]

Yes the charge is slower than a standard USB corded one for sure.

Prefer having the phone tethered to the USB while driving.

Can't believe Honda didn't offer fast charging on those wireless charger.

 

[rtypefk8]

Thank you. Early on there was some slower drivers and point by passing was allowed on one short straight, not the entire track, like normal.

This event was hosted by the Shelby club geared more towards driver’s instruction and car enjoyment. Lots of American muscle new and old. Was on the tail of a newer Mustang that wouldn’t let me pass for several laps, so exited and re-entered the track to get some clean laps, lol.

Tires aren’t corded, but not a fan of taking it that far. Could have finished the remaining sessions if the missus hadn’t made plans for us. But definitely would have pushed harder if had the confidence of a fresher set. That, combined with cooler temps,a little more practice and I’m confident I’d be able to drop my time by several seconds. My previous best was in the 1:29’s. Pretty sure I beat that on the early session, but the Hotlap app didn’t record when I switched to Spotify to get some driving tunes going.

Finally figuring out how to heel toe or having auto rev match ON would probably help. I drive with it OFF.

Still will be able to drive around abit until the wife gives me permission for a new set, lol

Can u provide me the link to your mods / tune? You have a great thread

Thank you jermey jade. Making a little progress each day. All that’s left is to reinstall the steering wheel seat belts and B pillars + figure out how to wire the wireless charger pad and lighted door sills… then will be done!

The one bummer is I scratched the head unit display resting it on the shifter while plugging it back in. Such a bonehead. Didn’t think to protect it with a soft cloth….A new display costs $665 discounted online

I heard you could fix the superficial scratches on the head unit by using a product similar to the one that fixes scratches on CDs

 

[fatherpain]

Thank you for the kind words and the tip. Will certainly look into that, as am not looking forward to spending $665 for a replacement. Was also considering trying Novus 1, 2 and 3 with a microfiber towel to see if that helps.

All of the details for this build can be found by clicking here.

Post#1 contains a clickable table of contents for each mod so can go directly to that post.

However, there is alot of miscellaneous content if wish to make an attempt to read straight through.

Can u provide me the link to your mods / tune? You have a great thread

I heard you could fix the superficial scratches on the head unit by using a product similar to the one that fixes scratches on CDs

 

[rtypefk8]

Great, thanks, I have seen that thread, I will have to look closely at all the pages. I just thought somewhere you may have a concise list.

I personally have not tried the CD solution, but I will probably try it if it happens.

 

[fatherpain]

The link and table of contents is about as concise as it can be…

However… perhaps this is what mainly would be of interest:

• Wagner intercooler
• Eventuri intake and CF inlet turbo tube
• Dream Automotive high flow catted DP
• RV6 front pipe
• Sequence Titanium valved exhaust
• Motec ECU currently at 366HP/361 Ft-lbs conservative track tune by Salasko Racing
• XDI HPFP with drilled Fuel line
• HKS BOV
• PWR Race Radiator
• HKS oil cooler w/C&R Racing core
• Radium dual oil catch cans
• RV6 R660 Turbo (still to be installed)
• XDI 1350cc injectors (still need to purchase)
• Retune after turbo and injectors are installed.

Great, thanks, I have seen that thread, I will have to look closely at all the pages. I just thought somewhere you may have a concise list.

I personally have not tried the CD solution, but I will probably try it if it happens.

 

[rtypefk8]

Thanks

That's exactly the list I was looking for

 

[Zudican]

The link and table of contents is about as concise as it can be…

However… perhaps this is what mainly would be of interest:

• Wagner intercooler
• Eventuri intake and CF inlet turbo tube
• Dream Automotive high flow catted DP
• RV6 front pipe
• Sequence Titanium valved exhaust
• Motec ECU currently at 366HP/361 Ft-lbs conservative track tune by Salasko Racing
• XDI HPFP with drilled Fuel line
• HKS BOV
• PWR Race Radiator
• HKS oil cooler w/C&R Racing core
• Radium dual oil catch cans
• RV6 R660 Turbo (still to be installed)
• XDI 1350cc injectors (still need to purchase)
• Retune after turbo and injectors are installed.

Are you running the recirculating kit on the BOV? I have a HKS BOV and soon to order a fuel system and preorder the rv6 660. As well as swap from a PRL stage one to the HVI race and turbo inlet race when I install the turbo.

 

[fatherpain]

Hello Zudican,
No sir. Am on a Motec ECU so speed density tuned.

Are you running the recirculating kit on the BOV? I have a HKS BOV and soon to order a fuel system and preorder the rv6 660. As well as swap from a PRL stage one to the HVI race and turbo inlet race when I install the turbo.

 

[bscags]

One of my favorite mods has been the Acuity, shifter cable bushing upgrade, fully adjustable shifter and a weighted shift knob, which have been been installed for about a month.

Was happy with the stock shifter...but decided to upgrade because of the many positive comments regarding Acuity...

Installed Acuity’s shifter cable bushing upgrade to see the difference. Gotta love the packaging description lol.

Acuity has a lot of good install information posted online:

https://acuityinstruments.com/pages/install-guides

And there are also YouTube videos posted, so I won’t do a step by step, other than to share a tip to remove these stubborn clips when replacing the OEM bushings.

Had no luck loosening the clips that secure them using a flat screwdriver.. so improvised and used a pry bar and crescent wrench.

Inserted the tip of the prybar under the edge of a clip then rotated using the crescent wrench. Worked like a champ. Ez peazy!

Once the clip was lifted a little, was then able to use a flathead screwdriver get in there to pry the clip off the rest of the way. Using spray penetrant also helps.

Acuity shifter bushings installed. It’s too bad the bushings are normally not visible underneath other components because they look great.

Though Acuity’s install guide didn’t call for it, applied a light coat of O-ring lube to the rubber bushings before installing to the metal holders.

Like this. Apply the light coat of non hardening O-ring lube or silicone on entire surface of the bushings before inserting to the metal holders. Result will be buttery smooth shifts.

If you are a DIY, the Acuity cable shifter bushing upgrade seems to be a no-brainer. It’s a relatively inexpensive mod unless paying a shop to install it.

The bushing gives the shifter a more substantial feel. I ran with just this upgrade alone for about a week and noticed the improvement over stock. Highly recommended.

Been reading your installation and ordered a set of the bushings! Gonna install this weekend. One thing though: I want to add the o-ring lube to get those buttery smooth shifts you speak of but I can’t justify getting a $54 2oz bottle of Parker’s for the small amount I will use for this and never use again. Any Recommendations for other great non-hardening o-lubes? There so many online lol

 

[fatherpain]

Been reading your installation and ordered a set of the bushings! Gonna install this weekend. One thing though: I want to add the o-ring lube to get those buttery smooth shifts you speak of but I can’t justify getting a $54 2oz bottle of Parker’s for the small amount I will use for this and never use again. Any Recommendations for other great non-hardening o-lubes? There so many online lol

Any silicone lube or RTV should do the trick, so long as it’s non/hardening. They probably have something at Home Depot that would do the trick.

 

[offwhitefk8]

Started off by removing the air intake. This typically involves using a 10mm socket, ratchet and long extension to remove (2) bolts.

Disconnect the MAF electrical connector.

And loosen the attached hose clamp. Undo the rubber intake seal from the orange clips.

Carefully lift out the air box. This rubber grommet that engages a post, but will free with gentle pressure.

Remove the noise dampener from the OEM HPFP.

Disconnect the battery. Negative terminal first. Uses a 10mm socket.

Remove the tower strut bar if present. Only do this with the car on tbe

Tower bar removed. If have aftermarket cooling plates, suggest removing them also, to avoid damage, as this mod required me to lay on the engine bay.

Reinstall the tower bar nuts to the strut posts and tighten. This will prevent the wheels and shocks from falling off if the car is raised.

Use a 10mm socket to

Remove the battery shroud.

Battery can now be pulled and set aside. My brake fluid is a little low and will be topped off.

Remove the plastic battery tray. It just lifts out.

Use a 10mm and 12mm socket to undo these bolts to remove the metal battery stand.

There also is this electrical hold down to release using a needle nose.

Locate the bolts secure this support and remove also.

The purpose for these steps is to create space to work.

Just wanted to thank you for the one picture of your APR cooling plates in this post, I was driving myself mad trying to find the correct clips that fits into the slots near the washer fluid.

 

[fatherpain]

Haven’t been able to do much with the car lately, but am still kicking around.

Recently had the ceramic pro annual refresher performed by the good folks at Aerowerkz and they did a fantastic job getting rid of the small rust blemishes. Hard to believe this baby is (5) years old now.

55K on the odometer

 

[9000RPM]

Love your build and updates on the car. True inspiration.

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