1.5T 1.5T goes through Downstream O2 sensors like a chainsmokers through cigarettes…

[SlakeWisely]

With both of us having the same codes same problem. Same exhaust smell. Same soot on the tailpipes. Plus the oil leak. I think it may be oil getting into/onto downpipe or into the exhaust and burning out the O2 sensors maybe???? Idk I'm waiting for my mechanic to take a crack at it

Yeah Sade I think I’ll take mine into mechanic just in case. Fixing the oil leak may do it and I may as well especially if it’s under warranty, and then I may get a tune on top of that…

Ah, I get you. I think it is the PRL Intercooler pipes, as they run down that way, but if you're saying that one side of the pipe isn't connected then that's another issue you would need to address, as your intercooler may not be cooling properly.

yeah yeah yeah you got me. On the left of that picture are the PRL pipes to the intercooler. Not pictured is the disjointed CAI below the airbox.
But what you’re saying is that if I have incompatible parts (intercooler with downpipe but no CAI) or no tune, this could b causing stress in the System and throwing the O2 sensors out of wack?

also can I pass an missions test with a tune?

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[Sadé Smoove]

Yeah Sade I think I’ll take mine into mechanic just in case. Fixing the oil leak may do it and I may as well especially if it’s under warranty, and then I may get a tune on top of that…

yeah yeah yeah you got me. On the left of that picture are the PRL pipes to the intercooler. Not pictured is the disjointed CAI below the airbox.
But what you’re saying is that if I have incompatible parts (intercooler with downpipe but no CAI) or no tune, this could b causing stress in the System and throwing the O2 sensors out of wack?

also can I pass an missions test with a tune?

It's not the tune that would cause you to fail inspection. It really comes down to the downpipe. Here in New York the only downpipe you will pass with is prl's latest high volume downpipe. I don't know what state you're in OP but depending on your emissions regulations you may or may not pass with an aftermarket downpipe. Like I said, only two options are OEM or PRL hvdp which I don't even think they make anymore.... Only two-step performance makes hvdps for the 1.5t 10th gen..... I've passed NYS inspection twice with the PRL high volume downpipe. The first time I failed because I had their V2 catted downpipe and because that requires you to disable monitors through a tune but NYS requires all monitors to be ready/active... As soon as I failed. PRL released their hvdp and I swapped that in and been good for 2 to 3 years since up until these recent issues with the O2 sensors.... Course right as my inspection is up again this month

 

[NixChixFix]

But what you’re saying is that if I have incompatible parts (intercooler with downpipe but no CAI) or no tune, this could b causing stress in the System and throwing the O2 sensors out of wack?

also can I pass an missions test with a tune?

Oh, I getchu. He might have left that last end of the CAI down there, and I just can't see it in the picture. But It's mainly the downpipe that the system is looking at in this case - the intercooler/piping doesn't matter for the tune as far as I know, as that just affects the heat management (unless things are so out of what you're overheating, but you'd see that on the temp gauge). but the aftermarket downpipe without the tune will definitely cause issues.

I'm not sure about IL where you're at, but at least in CA a tune makes you fail inspection.

 

[SlakeWisely]

It's not the tune that would cause you to fail inspection. It really comes down to the downpipe. Here in New York the only downpipe you will pass with is prl's latest high volume downpipe. I don't know what state you're in OP but depending on your emissions regulations you may or may not pass with an aftermarket downpipe. Like I said, only two options are OEM or PRL hvdp which I don't even think they make anymore.... Only two-step performance makes hvdps for the 1.5t 10th gen

Thanks Sade, Lmk what you hear from yo. Mechanic and if I get mine in before you I’ll relay my findings as well.

 

[SlakeWisely]

@NixChixFix, thanks for all your help. I’ll definitely consider A. Checking for oil leaks and getting that repaired and B. Getting a hondata or KTuner link up. You’re a real G, can I ask what your setup is while you’re still here?

 

[bbeem]

You can also buy a $20 ODB scanner and leave that plugged in while driving while you wait to get ktuner. You can still see all the same data, and if you get a Bluetooth one you can watch it on your phone or tablet like tunerview.

 

[Neddih]

@NixChixFix, thanks for all your help. I’ll definitely consider A. Checking for oil leaks and getting that repaired and B. Getting a hondata or KTuner link up. You’re a real G, can I ask what your setup is while you’re still here?

If you are asking about tuning platforms, just go with ktuner. Cheaper (if you choose the v1.2) and preferred by most of the best tuners/lots of ots tune availability for down the road should you so choose. Try to catch what the other codes that have popped up besides the ones you mentioned and go from there. As far as soot on the sensors/exhaust goes I wouldn't focus on that pointing to an issue, my sensors and usually my exhaust look like hell over time but opening exhaust flow can do that. Do try to have the turbo/downpipe area checked if you are seriously worried about oil leaks though.

 

[NixChixFix]

@NixChixFix, thanks for all your help. I’ll definitely consider A. Checking for oil leaks and getting that repaired and B. Getting a hondata or KTuner link up. You’re a real G, can I ask what your setup is while you’re still here?

As far as engine/tune goes, I'm mainly stock - just did a 27Won CAI with TSP Stage 1 Tune. It's plenty for me. Most of my money has gone to chassis rigidity and drive feel improvements.

 

[SlakeWisely]

If you are asking about tuning platforms, just go with ktuner. Cheaper (if you choose the v1.2) and preferred by most of the best tuners/lots of ots tune availability for down the road should you so choose. Try to catch what the other codes that have popped up besides the ones you mentioned and go from there. As far as soot on the sensors/exhaust goes I wouldn't focus on that pointing to an issue, my sensors and usually my exhaust look like hell over time but opening exhaust flow can do that. Do try to have the turbo/downpipe area checked if you are seriously worried about oil leaks though.

Sick, thanks Neddih

 

[FK7onTheRise]

IMO something is burning through your exhaust that probably shouldn't be.

If you're having more dark exhaust smoke and soot than usual (which seems to be the case), my first thought is that you're running rich (too much fuel in air fuel mixture). There is a possibility that you created a boost leak while installing the intercooler and pipes, which means your car isn't getting enough air, thus burning more gas than needed. These cars also just happen to run a little rich on the stock tune already. This would cause the black smoke and soot, which is covering and destroying your o2 sensor.

I'm not sure if the secondary o2 sensors in this car plays a role in fueling calculations, but if it does, then getting it dirty would likely compound the issue and make your car exponentially rich--killing that o2 sensor in double time.

Other fluids burning in the turbo/exhaust could also be causing the issue. If notice the smoke is blueish and/or smells like oil, it's oil being burnt instead. If the smoke is white/vapor-like and smells kinda sweet, it's coolant.

 

[FK7onTheRise]

With both of us having the same codes same problem. Same exhaust smell. Same soot on the tailpipes. Plus the oil leak. I think it may be oil getting into/onto downpipe or into the exhaust and burning out the O2 sensors maybe???? Idk I'm waiting for my mechanic to take a crack at it

Where is your oil leaking from, or if you can't locate it, where does it pool up on your skid plate? Also what does your exhaust smell like? What is the color? Have you been messing around with your turbo?

The only way that oil would be making it into the exhaust is if you have excessive oil blow-by/crankcase pressure (unlikely), or if your turbo itself is leaking oil.

If your smoke is blue/greyish and smells like oil, then you would be right that you're burning oil. If not, it might be an issue running rich as I addressed in my previous comment

 

[Sadé Smoove]

Where is your oil leaking from, or if you can't locate it, where does it pool up on your skid plate? Also what does your exhaust smell like? What is the color? Have you been messing around with your turbo?

The only way that oil would be making it into the exhaust is if you have excessive oil blow-by/crankcase pressure (unlikely), or if your turbo itself is leaking oil.

If your smoke is blue/greyish and smells like oil, then you would be right that you're burning oil. If not, it might be an issue running rich as I addressed in my previous comment

Appears to be leaking from the rear main seal. I don't really have any off-colored or off-smelling smoke coming out the exhaust. There's a slight smell of burning oil, but like I said it's coming out the rear main seal by the front pipe

 

[SlakeWisely]

I took car to a trusted mechanic who I’m friends with and they said there was a super minor oil leak that was no longer excreting oil in between engine and transmission. I had told them my previous concerns about fluids being mixed to kill the O2 sensor and they said the oil leak wouldn’t have caused it. They said that the leak was so minor that it wasn’t worth fixing yet. I couldn’t even see it when I looked.

I checked out intercooler and tubes and connections look good but ig there could be some gap or leak in the system somewhere. You said this may cause the engine to run rich if it isn’t getting enough air. How can I test for some kind of leak? Another specific visit to the mechanic? Car smells strongly of gas when I drive it up to 4,500/5,000 rpm’s but I’m rarely pushing it even that hard . I’m not even in sport mode often. Mostly Econ mode lol

Car doesn’t smell strange, just smells like a strong smelling engine.

IMO something is burning through your exhaust that probably shouldn't be.

If you're having more dark exhaust smoke and soot than usual (which seems to be the case), my first thought is that you're running rich (too much fuel in air fuel mixture). There is a possibility that you created a boost leak while installing the intercooler and pipes, which means your car isn't getting enough air, thus burning more gas than needed. These cars also just happen to run a little rich on the stock tune already. This would cause the black smoke and soot, which is covering and destroying your o2 sensor.

I'm not sure if the secondary o2 sensors in this car plays a role in fueling calculations, but if it does, then getting it dirty would likely compound the issue and make your car exponentially rich--killing that o2 sensor in double time.

Other fluids burning in the turbo/exhaust could also be causing the issue. If notice the smoke is blueish and/or smells like oil, it's oil being burnt instead. If the smoke is white/vapor-like and smells kinda sweet, it's coolant.

IMO something is burning through your exhaust that probably shouldn't be.

If you're having more dark exhaust smoke and soot than usual (which seems to be the case), my first thought is that you're running rich (too much fuel in air fuel mixture). There is a possibility that you created a boost leak while installing the intercooler and pipes, which means your car isn't getting enough air, thus burning more gas than needed. These cars also just happen to run a little rich on the stock tune already. This would cause the black smoke and soot, which is covering and destroying your o2 sensor.

I'm not sure if the secondary o2 sensors in this car plays a role in fueling calculations, but if it does, then getting it dirty would likely compound the issue and make your car exponentially rich--killing that o2 sensor in double time.

Other fluids burning in the turbo/exhaust could also be causing the issue. If notice the smoke is blueish and/or smells like oil, it's oil being burnt instead. If the smoke is white/vapor-like and smells kinda sweet, it's coolant.

 

[FK7onTheRise]

I took car to a trusted mechanic who I’m friends with and they said there was a super minor oil leak that was no longer excreting oil in between engine and transmission. I had told them my previous concerns about fluids being mixed to kill the O2 sensor and they said the oil leak wouldn’t have caused it. They said that the leak was so minor that it wasn’t worth fixing yet. I couldn’t even see it when I looked.

I checked out intercooler and tubes and connections look good but ig there could be some gap or leak in the system somewhere. You said this may cause the engine to run rich if it isn’t getting enough air. How can I test for some kind of leak? Another specific visit to the mechanic? Car smells strongly of gas when I drive it up to 4,500/5,000 rpm’s but I’m rarely pushing it even that hard . I’m not even in sport mode often. Mostly Econ mode lol

Car doesn’t smell strange, just smells like a strong smelling engine.

You can test for boost leaks using a simple soapy water spray test, but it’s a bit tedious and not very informative. If you don’t notice hissing noises, no noticeable decrease in boost, and soapy spray water test isn’t getting any hits, I’d cross this off the list.

Try cleaning your maf sensor/changing your air filter. This could also be the case. Basically check anything that could be affecting your A/F mixtures. If you have access to a tunerview with gauges to watch fuel trims and AFR, this would be alot easier.

 

[SlakeWisely]

Hey thanks for the reply, my KTuner arrives today, would that help me see AFR once set up?

You can test for boost leaks using a simple soapy water spray test, but it’s a bit tedious and not very informative. If you don’t notice hissing noises, no noticeable decrease in boost, and soapy spray water test isn’t getting any hits, I’d cross this off the list.

Try cleaning your maf sensor/changing your air filter. This could also be the case. Basically check anything that could be affecting your A/F mixtures. If you have access to a tunerview with gauges to watch fuel trims and AFR, this would be alot easier.

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