Hasport mounts suck really bad!! Nobody buy this product! Track day ruined

[Sport-injected]

I am not sure, like I said, they are local to me I walked in to purchase the side mounts and brackets and I asked what size bushings and they said 62a like it was the only option but from previous experience just switching the race 82a rmm holy shit what a break in process. I couldn’t imagine 82a all around

The rmm was definitely rough for the first few months, adding the side 82s wasn't as bad as the rear initially but it made for a great improvement in response.

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[SicivicSi]

Hi guys, I got in a dang near raging argument with hasport probably a year and a half before this issue reared its ugly ugly head. It was about those bolts snapping.
Long story short my track day is ruined.

I’m angry because I heard hasport had an upgraded mount and they wouldn’t let me buy it or give it to me. It sickens me they still sell this crap, I even loctited the bolts and the two outer trans bolts still snapped.

Time to window weld the stock mounts.

just garbage. I don’t mean to be so mean to hasport but really makes me sick.

Now here I am 2 hours from home with 1 bolt holding the trans mount together.
Partly my fault for tracking my car but this shouldn’t have happened.

THE EXACT SAME THING HAPPENED TO ME. I ended up drilling and thread chasing the holes and put a shit ton of loctite

 

[MarcusgibbS]

The only question I have is did you tighten each mount or part of that mount individually before installing the next?
Since the stock mounts are soft they have play, when changing to a more solid setup they need to be almost floated in because if you have the motor or trans side lifted to swap it in if you tighten it to soon then it will be “loaded” one particular way and put too much stress in that location/direction.
This would be the only way to rule out a manufacturing defect from installation error. Grade 12 bolts take an extremely high amount of force to snap which is why I would suspect trying this method if you have not already.
Also I am not accusing you of doing anything wrong or that you don’t know what you are doing but sometimes simple things like this get overlooked and can cause issues.

 

[Spence]

The only question I have is did you tighten each mount or part of that mount individually before installing the next?
Since the stock mounts are soft they have play, when changing to a more solid setup they need to be almost floated in because if you have the motor or trans side lifted to swap it in if you tighten it to soon then it will be “loaded” one particular way and put too much stress in that location/direction.
This would be the only way to rule out a manufacturing defect from installation error. Grade 12 bolts take an extremely high amount of force to snap which is why I would suspect trying this method if you have not already.
Also I am not accusing you of doing anything wrong or that you don’t know what you are doing but sometimes simple things like this get overlooked and can cause issues.

Na its ok I know youre not calling me out, I just know from asking on this group previously on these mounts, I'm not the only one to break these bolts.

I honestly don't remember, but I really believe this to be a whimpy design. Honestly, them using a set of bolts that are smaller than stock (m10 vs m12), and as I said, both the mounts upper ones act like a torque mount just because of how the bushings are oriented, this creates a pretty good pulling motion on the bolts.

I'm gonna revise the mount that failed and try again with my custom design, I really think my design is gonna hold up, gonna get some m12 bolts and weld a bracket onto it that is going to clamp with the bolts top to bottom.

Hopefully there is enough room for it lol.

 

[MarcusgibbS]

Na its ok I know youre not calling me out, I just know from asking on this group previously on these mounts, I'm not the only one to break these bolts.

I honestly don't remember, but I really believe this to be a whimpy design. Honestly, them using a set of bolts that are smaller than stock (m10 vs m12), and as I said, both the mounts upper ones act like a torque mount just because of how the bushings are oriented, this creates a pretty good pulling motion on the bolts.

I'm gonna revise the mount that failed and try again with my custom design, I really think my design is gonna hold up, gonna get some m12 bolts and weld a bracket onto it that is going to clamp with the bolts top to bottom.

Hopefully there is enough room for it lol.

Honestly I feel it’s an alignment issue or the bolts were too tight. But if you want to make your own I would use a rule of thumb for engineering and if going up to M12 it should sit 1.5 times the diameter of thread so the threaded portion of the hole should be 18mm deep for it to work correctly. Otherwise it won’t necessarily be any stronger with a lack of thread. This is Likely the reason they went with a smaller diameter.

 

[Spence]

Honestly I feel it’s an alignment issue or the bolts were too tight. But if you want to make your own I would use a rule of thumb for engineering and if going up to M12 it should sit 1.5 times the diameter of thread so the threaded portion of the hole should be 18mm deep for it to work correctly. Otherwise it won’t necessarily be any stronger with a lack of thread. This is Likely the reason they went with a smaller diameter.

As well my idea was to fill in the spots they machined in there with bushings that fit the m12 bolts and glue them in there to increase support, and run shouldered bolts all the way through so the threads aren't really bearing much of the load too, weld a set of nuts on the back.

Not quite sure what you mean on that, but what I said might be what you mean.

 

[MarcusgibbS]

As well my idea was to fill in the spots they machined in there with bushings that fit the m12 bolts and glue them in there to increase support, and run shouldered bolts so the threads aren't really bearing much of the load too.

Not quite sure what you mean on that, but what I said might be what you mean.

No the depth of the threaded hole should be 1.5 times the width of the bolt. Being a bigger bolt in the same size hole with have less threads engaged just by the nature of threads and going bigger.
I believe I understand what you are trying to do.
But will an m12 bolt even fit in that hole without drilling into the shoulder to tap for m12? If you do then you likely won’t need to fill the gap with a bushing but in turn you may end up adding more play in the bracket than you intend to causing it to fail faster.
With my original point though about the alignment just because the bolts go in when in place doesn’t always mean it’s in the right position.
Just don’t use a fine thread m12 tap if you do modify since it wont be as rigid.

 

[Spence]

No the depth of the threaded hole should be 1.5 times the width of the bolt. Being a bigger bolt in the same size hole with have less threads engaged just by the nature of threads and going bigger.
I believe I understand what you are trying to do.
But will an m12 bolt even fit in that hole without drilling into the shoulder to tap for m12? If you do then you likely won’t need to fill the gap with a bushing but in turn you may end up adding more play in the bracket than you intend to causing it to fail faster.
With my original point though about the alignment just because the bolts go in when in place doesn’t always mean it’s in the right position.
Just don’t use a fine thread m12 tap if you do modify since it wont be as rigid.

My plan was to drill it out for m12, and install bushings in the old holes for the bolt heads rod extra support.

And run m12 hex head bolts all the way through.
I guess you know more about engineering than I do. But I gotta see if it’s 1.5x the width tho

 

[MarcusgibbS]

My plan was to drill it out for m12, and install bushings in the old holes for the bolt heads rod extra support.

And run m12 hex head bolts all the way through.
I guess you know more about engineering than I do. But I gotta see if it’s 1.5x the width tho

That’s just a rule of thumb but if you dramatize it, think of a massively wide bolt (huge diameter) threading into the same thickness or depth of material and how few turns you could get on it vs a very skinny (small diameter) bolt.
so with fine thread (threads very close to each other) vs coarse thread (further distance between the peaks and valleys of the thread) the strength of the finer thread is much less.
I just wanted to bring up some valid concerns to you and I have trouble explaining things without writing a novel sometimes. lol

 

[Berserk_FC3]

Gonna be honest here, those bolts are supposed to be torqued to a good 55 something ft/lbs, hand tightening them and putting locktite probably caused that failure. Those bolts did not properly expand to seat that mount, might be a quality issue but I think that wasn't the only issue.

 

[Spence]

Gonna be honest here, those bolts are supposed to be torqued to a good 55 something ft/lbs, hand tightening them and putting locktite probably caused that failure. Those bolts did not properly expand to seat that mount, might be a quality issue but I think that wasn't the only issue.

I think In part that they’re grade 12.9 they don’t stretch, they loosened initially and I loctited them then eventually they broke.
Either way I still question hasports design and intend to improve it to make it solid.

 

[Berserk_FC3]

I think In part that they’re grade 12.9 they don’t stretch, they loosened initially and I loctited them then eventually they broke.
Either way I still question hasports design and intend to improve it to make it solid.

If they aren't torqued to spec all bolts will wiggle loose. Bolts installed but not torqued break much more easily than if they were properly torqued, especially in an application like a transmission mount being tracked.

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