Faint clunk noise when turning full lock on first startup

[Kizzie]

Would leave the car parked in garage at night, or at work outside. After a few hours of sitting! I would go back out and get lunch etc, turning the steering wheel I hear it clunk. Just had alignment checked and redone. It was pulling previously very horrendous. Still pulls and this has happened since track day last year around June. Clunking seems to only happen when going slow and it’d only be one to two clunks. Not a continuous sound. Help please… could it be axles ? Dealership said they did an overview of my concern and everything checked out… and tried charging me for it too.

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[Chris_19Si]

I have recently replaced most of my components up front for a mystery clunk on my end. There are tests for several components that you can perform with and without a jack. From what you described, I don't think it's an axle (CV joint), as they are pretty durable. Since you mentioned you did some track driving, I have to assume you are still on stock calipers with maybe some upgraded pads/rotors?? There are more questions to be answered for sure, but take a look on youtube for videos on testing for CV joints going bad just to check that off the list. It's probably one of the easier tests.

To check wheel bearings I would jack the corner up and yank on the wheel top and bottom. Everything should feel solid.

With the wheel up, test the tie rod by pushing and pulling the wheel on the sides. Everything should feel solid.

If you jack both front wheels off the ground you can disconnect one end of each end link to the sway bar and see if there is play or if they feel very loose. They should have some resistance for both ends.

While the wheels are up, prop your phone or GoPro up behind each wheel and aim it at the lower ball joints. Record the joint as you push and pull on the sides of the wheels. If the ball joint is bad, you will see it open up as it did on my car. Mine opened up about a 1/2" each and needed to be replaced. There should be no movement up and down.

Also, while the wheels are up, rotate the wheels and make sure the brakes are retracting and not dragging. Put the car in neutral of course.

All of this is with the assumption you didn't hit something, reasonably low miles (less than 100,000) and regular maintenance. If there are other things to consider you will have to mention it.

Good luck!

 

[Kizzie]

I have recently replaced most of my components up front for a mystery clunk on my end. There are tests for several components that you can perform with and without a jack. From what you described, I don't think it's an axle (CV joint), as they are pretty durable. Since you mentioned you did some track driving, I have to assume you are still on stock calipers with maybe some upgraded pads/rotors?? There are more questions to be answered for sure, but take a look on youtube for videos on testing for CV joints going bad just to check that off the list. It's probably one of the easier tests.

To check wheel bearings I would jack the corner up and yank on the wheel top and bottom. Everything should feel solid.

With the wheel up, test the tie rod by pushing and pulling the wheel on the sides. Everything should feel solid.

If you jack both front wheels off the ground you can disconnect one end of each end link to the sway bar and see if there is play or if they feel very loose. They should have some resistance for both ends.

While the wheels are up, prop your phone or GoPro up behind each wheel and aim it at the lower ball joints. Record the joint as you push and pull on the sides of the wheels. If the ball joint is bad, you will see it open up as it did on my car. Mine opened up about a 1/2" each and needed to be replaced. There should be no movement up and down.

Also, while the wheels are up, rotate the wheels and make sure the brakes are retracting and not dragging. Put the car in neutral of course.

All of this is with the assumption you didn't hit something, reasonably low miles (less than 100,000) and regular maintenance. If there are other things to consider you will have to mention it.

Good luck!

Going back to end links am I looking for up and down play? While they are connected I checked and they moved fairly easy but with some resistance left and right.

 

[Chris_19Si]

I would say you should disconnect one end to know how each joint feels in the hand. The front of the car has to have both wheels level with one another to unload the sway bar, which takes tension off the link. Don't try to loosen them with one wheel off the ground. There are several ways to get to the end links, both on ramps and wheel turned away from each link and both wheels up off the ground. I believe the nut is a 14mm, but I don't remember the allen wrench size to keep the bolt from spinning. The resistance I'm speaking of should be the same in all directions. If they feel loose or have play, replace them. They are not very expensive for factory replacements, which is what I use. Some people suggest upgraded ones, but I have not experienced wear on these yet, and I have a stiff front bar and drive very aggressively. Up to you if you do replace them.

 

[Design]

Check the bearing assembly below your top hats. They can wear down prematurely and exhibit the symptoms you’re describing - especially on track setups with aggressive front negative camber.

I typically inspect on an alignment rack but Jack ramps should also work. Just make sure the suspension is loaded. GL.

 

[the_red_civic_x]

Having this same issue, Good luck and let us know your findings!

 

[Chris_19Si]

Check the bearing assembly below your top hats. They can wear down prematurely and exhibit the symptoms you’re describing - especially on track setups with aggressive front negative camber.

I typically inspect on an alignment rack but Jack ramps should also work. Just make sure the suspension is loaded. GL.

I would like to do this check on my car. Can you elaborate a little more how to do the check with the suspension loaded? I plan to check bump steer in the next couple of weeks before and after installing some Spoon zero bump steer ball joints. I need to remove a coil spring, so I'll be disassembling a strut to yank a coil out. While I have the strut out, I want to inspect the bearing assembly below my top hats because I've had some noise/clunking during autocross. I've replaced almost every other component while chasing this down. I suppose I could check the bearing with the strut unloaded, but would like to learn how to do it without disassembling the struts.

 

[Design]

You’ll need to have the car on a lift or ramp so the suspension is loaded with the full weight of the car. Have someone turn the wheel while another is underneath inspecting the bearing assembly and spring position.

Disclaimer: be absolutely sure the vehicle won’t shift position on the ramps.

 

[Mfg91]

I just replaced my 2 front struts in my 2019 civic now when I turn the wheel I hear a sound like rubber rubbing against something. Does anyone know what this could be?

 

[Chris_19Si]

Did you put the end links on the correct way? The top of the link installs from the backside of the strut mounting bracket. There is also a right and a left side. Check that out.

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