5.25" speaker in rear deck on Coupe?

[shoegazer]

Regarding DSP flat, unfortunately I have the simple knobs/buttons HU in mine, as it's not an upper-trim level version.

Your 2018 LX-P should have a radio that's very easy to upgrade to something that sounds a lot better. With the higher trim levels; the Sensing stuff is so integrated into the head unit that it becomes almost impossible.

I suspect that you're just hearing the bad sounding speakers in their bad sounding locations. But that radio, IIRC, isn't doing any heavy-duty DSP stuff to the actual signal.

Dunno if you are interested; but the Zippyshare set off my eSet antivirus. Be safe.

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[BailOut]

Shoegazer, your eSet is giving a false positive. It's a simple mp3 file that I recorded of the test played on the zippyshare website.

Also, my testing positively showed that the radio is sending a different signal to the back.
I'd like to replace the HU with a nice touchscreen that has has access to the oem honda vehicle settings too, but they all protrude up, partially blocking the AC vents - a deal killer.

 

[shoegazer]

It wasn't the file that set off my eSet. It was the linked page. No biggie. Just FYI. All good.

My experience and impressions from other threads is that, while there may be a difference between the fronts and rears, it's not as hyper-processed as the models with the screen-based infotainment (and integrated Sensing Suite). Those radios, as I understand it, send an odd, non-standard digital signal to an external amp. And the signal is almost impossible to decode and send to an external aftermarket amp in an affordable way.

Since the 2018 and earlier LX radios don't have all the integration (and just aren't as complicated); you have more options available to go with an aftermarket unit. And I believe there are devices that help retain the steering wheel controls.

I wish you good luck with it whichever way you go.

 

[BailOut]

Completed the project today:

Walkthrough
​

1. First ensure you have the correct tools (half the battle). You'll need a regular phillips screwdriver and angled screwing hand tool as you'll be working in very tight spaces, sometimes only being able to get a quarter turn at a time. You'll also need a 10mm socket and ratcheting screwdriver for it. If you have nice tint on the rear windshield, get a piece of cardboard to protect it against tool scratching.

Also, a power drill with bit sizes 9/64, 11/64 and 1/4. A pencil to mark measurements, electrical tape for insulating the cutouts near the speaker connectors, and the following recommended screw sizes per speaker:
2x #10-24 x 1/2"
2x #10-24 x 1"
1x M5-0.8 x 25mm

and 2x #10-24 coarse nylon lock nuts

The speakers I used are Infinity Reference 5032cfx, which are 5.25 speakers. The brackets used for these speakers are from SoundMekanix, custom size pvc rings that are 12mm thick, 4.5" ID and 6" OD. Order them here, about $35 shipped.

(parts and hand tool)

Lastly, remove the side pillars and plastic rear deck cover. Excellent video on how here.

2. Begin by measuring and marking the the speaker screw slots on the pvc rings:

3. Next, drill all four holes with the 9/64 bit. Then, take the pvc ring out to the car, placing it over the rear deck cutouts. Now align two of the drill holes with the oem bracket rectangular clip cutouts and mark the spot for the last drill hole that's for your M5 screw:

4. Now drill the hole for the M5 screw using the 11/64 bit. Using the same bit, enlarge the the two screw holes opposite the M5 slot to the point where the 1" #10-24 screws will simply slide in. Then, using the 1/4 bit, drill a shallow "pothole" in the M5 screw hole to accomodate the M5 screw's head, allowing it to seat flush with the pvc ring's surface.

You may also wish to use the 11/64 bit to drill a very shallow pothole (essentially enlarging the top part of the slot) on the 9/64 holes for ease of insertion of your 1/2" screws. I also recommend partially screwing in & then backing out the screws in the 9/64 slot so the thread tracks are already imprinted inside the slot for ease of installation, as the workspace can get very tight once you're in the vehicle.

Now repeat steps 2-4 for the other pvc ring.

Diagram of how the pvc ring should look, prepared for mounting in the car (driver side, top view):

5. Prepare the rear deck speaker cutout with electrical tape at the part where it bows out, between the rectangular clip cutouts (where the oem speaker wire connector was). I used blue tape to match the paint:

(passenger side view)

6. Using the screwdriver, screw in the M5 screw until a few rows of threading are visible on the bottom side of the pvc ring. Unfortunately this is the last time you'll be using it on the bracket. Prepare patience and cardboard in its stead as you align the screw over the oem nut, opposite the rectangular clip cutouts using the angled screw hand tool:

(passenger side view)

7. Once the M5 screwhead is seated inside the pothole (flush with the pcv ring surface) and it's moderately tightened, adjust the ring so the two 11/64 slots align with the rectangular oem clip cutouts. Using patience, controlled force on the outside of the pvc ring, and downward force on the 1" screw push it through the ring and the oem clip cutout, starting with the rear:

(driver side view)

Move to the front side and repeat. It may be a very tight fit. Next, tighten up the two nylon lock nuts using the 10mm socket/ratcheting screwdriver:

(driver side view)

8. Now screw in the 1/2" screws into the two remaining 9/64 slots, again starting with the rear slot:

(driver side view)

9. Lastly, attach the speaker to the oem connector. I used the metra harness that crutchfield included w/ my order:

(passenger side view)

10. Repeat this process for the other side's speaker. Once done, ensure all screws are fastened down very tight to avoid future rattle/vibration issues.
11. Test your new setup's sound!
12. Reassemble the rear deck and pillars (opposite of the disassembly process shown in step 1's video).
Note: the sliding clip assemblies at the rear of the side pillars need not be a "pain in the friggin dick" to reassemble, as the video host's experience went. They simply pop out of the frame by pinching the top/bottom of the white clips, similar to the pillar's metal SRS clip removal:

(driver side view of sliding clip assembly frame hole)

(sliding clip assembly)

Slide the black clip face down into the track on the SRS trim panel, and then push the white clip into it, snapping it in place:

(sliding clip assembly pressed together and mounted in driver side trim panel track)

Then it'll easily pop into the frame hole just behind the airbag, shown in the initial picture above.

13. Done, enjoy the new and improved sound!

 

[TonyTheTiger57]

Has anyone 3D printed a bracket yet?

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